www.4wheeldrivevan.com is the home of my 4×4 van!
Please follow the DIY progress on my 1997 Ford E250 4X4 Van Conversion.
www.4wheeldrivevan.com is the home of my 4×4 van!
Please follow the DIY progress on my 1997 Ford E250 4X4 Van Conversion.
I know I could have found something at a junkyard and rebuilt it myself but by the time I was done I would have spent a month working on it and still manage to screw something up. I am looking for an engine I can trust for 10,000 mile road trips so I went with a factory refurb with a 4 year / million mile warranty for $1799
Why a 4.2 6 cylinder and not a monster V8 or V10? It’s what came stock in my free van and I did not feel like rewiring and replacing almost everything in the engine bay. I don’t tow things and back when she used to run I never had any problems with the 4.2 in the mountains or carrying a heavy load. 80 mph is about as fast as I’ll ever need to go and the 4.2 does 80 with no problems. The engine should be here in a few days. I’m looking forward to getting the old van running again after almost three years of sitting with a dead motor.
It sure feels like I love to create more work for myself and spend more money than I have to. Here I am tearing apart my rear axle to find any damage and replace any worn parts I find. I’m sure the axle would have worked fine the way it was but I decided to make it like new and clean up all the rust. Here’s a shot of the special 4 Lug Spindle Nut needed to remove the hub. I picked it up at SummitRacing
After removing the spindle nut the bearings were a bit difficult to get out. I ended up using a paperclip with a small hook on the end to pull them out. Removal Hint: The left side Hub has reverse threads.
I should have read the instructions first. I tried the BFH with no luck. The Puller made quick easy work of the job.
And here’s the final product, a spindle and some rust. I found some worn seals and a little water in the hub.
Here’s a nice write-up on putting the Rear Hub back together again.
Parts needed: Rear wheel seals are 2C3Z-1177-AB. The o ring which goes on the axle end is E5TZ-4A331-A
I found my parts at http://store.crownmotorsredding.com
I thought I had a decent set of tools but then I went to tear down this 10.5 Sterling rear axle and realized I needed more. I’ve got a couple 24mm short sockets and even a few 24m wrenches but without a deep 24mm socket I could not remove these bolts. A quick trip to harborfreight.com and about $40 solved the problem. Shipping took about a week which is no big deal because I’ve been so busy with my day job that I have not been able to spend much time on the van this week. Here it is Sunday and I’ve got a few free hours so I thought I’d post a picture or two.
Shock mount removal – I went through 4 grinder disks. Wish I had a plasma cutter!!!
Another Tool to Buy – 4 lug spindle nut socket to allow me to remove the rear axle hubs.
Reference Video
Smaller than a motor home yet larger than a Jeep. Like the dual purpose motorcyle these vans will not excel at everything but they bridge the gap between full size camper and nimble Jeep very nicely.
Every project gets its inspiration from somewhere. Seeing these two 4×4 vans in Moab Utah set the gears in motion.
This axle has significantly less rust than my front axle did. The only parts that I will be replacing are the rotors, brake pads and e-brakes.
The 4″ grinder removed most of the rust off the larger areas, I’ll have to use some smaller sanding wheels and metal brushes to get into the nooks and crannies before I prime and paint with POR15.
Sterling 10.5 axle for a 4×4 Ford Van Conversion, Q & A with Chris Steuber of Ujoint Offroad.
QUESTIONS:
ANSWERS:
The shock mounts aren’t in the correct location, so you’ll need to weld some new ones on. Same with the perches, they’re not the correct spring pad width. The electrical connection on top of the axle is critical, that’s the VSS sensor. Your van should have one too, and it needs to be plugged in. Check the part #’s between them, they should be the same. No need for the brake shields, I hate those things!! You will be re using the brake hard lines, so keep them or run some new ones if you want them to be pretty. (who doesn’t want that!)
I saw this center console the last time I was at the salvage yard but for some reason did not pick it up at that time. Price for greater drink capacity? $10.00
They are wet and soapy because I just cleaned them off with the power washer.
Rear Axle Assembly
|
|
|||||||||||||
| Notes: 4X43L73,BLU,11-03,6.0,COL-AT,OWC |
EXCURSION 02-05 (10.50 RG), 3.73 ratio
FORD F250SD PICKUP 02-04 3.73 ratio, tag S141H
FORD F250SD PICKUP 02-04 3.73 ratio, tag V414B, C and F
FORD F250SD PICKUP 02-04 3.73 ratio, tag V420B, C and F
FORD F250SD PICKUP 02-04 3.73 ratio, tag V423B, C and F
FORD F250SD PICKUP 02-04 3.73 ratio, tag V425B, C and F
FORD F350SD PICKUP 02-04 10.50″ ring gear, SRW, 3.73 ratio, tag V420 series
FORD F350SD PICKUP 02-04 10.50″ ring gear, SRW, 3.73 ratio, tag V423 series
FORD F350SD PICKUP 02-04 10.50″ ring gear, SRW, 3.73 ratio, tag V425 series
Supposedly these are the parts I need to mate my 4R70W transmission to a BW1356 Transfer Case. Installing the 4×4 tail shaft requires a total transmission tear down.
Rather than try to fab these shackle mounts up myself with my limited collection of tools, I purchased them on Ebay for about $10.00 each (which appears to be less than half of what they cost everywhere else). They may look small in the picture but they are pretty massive and made of 1″ thick steel.
I really need a day off without interruptions so I can get some work done on the van. It’s difficult to make much progress working an hour or so after dinner in the evenings.
Due to crappy ungodly hot, humid rainy weather I did not do any drilling or welding today but I did pull the stock front sway bar and put the Ujoint Offroad brackets in place.
Interesting photo, you can see all the way from the front bumper bracket to the rear windows.
What do the numbers on the transmission mean? This is a 1997 4R70W RWD transmission.
But I do know he has a thing for 4×4 Vans. Here are photos of two Sportsmobile
4×4 vans he is said to own. Supposedly he has one for the East Coast and one for the West.
But I don’t want to land in New York City
Don’t want to land in Mexico, no, no, no
Don’t want to land in no Three Mile Island
Don’t want to see my skin aglow, no, no, no
Don’t want to land in Comanche Sky Park
Or in Nashville, Tennessee, no, no, no
Don’t want to land in no San Juan Airport
Or the Yukon Territory, no, no, no
Don’t want land in no San Diego
Don’t want to land in no Buzzard’s Bay, no, no, no
Don’t want to land on no Ayatollah
I got nothing more to say
Warn Premium Locking Hubs $207.00 on Amazon.com
Before purchasing these I never realized Ball Joints were so expensive.
You are looking at about $200 of Moog Ball Joints.
Here are the first parts that I’ll actually be bolting to the Van and the first step in making the conversion from rear wheel drive to 4 wheel drive. I’ve watched the Ujoint Offroad Video about a dozen times and read the instructions twice and feel that I’ ready to start drilling into the van frame. I’m guessing the install of these parts should take me less than an hour and as long as no family emergencies pop up between now and this evening I plan of doing it tonight.
The cost of this 4×4 van conversion kit (as of July 13, 2010) is $595. Chris of Ujoint Offroad was extremely helpful in answering all of my 4×4 van conversion questions. If you would like to order the same kit ask for Part #: CK001
Unlike the Moog Ball Joint and Warn Hub sellers, Shipping from Ujoint Offroad was LIGHTNING FAST.
Ujoint Offroad also sells most of the other parts you will need to complete your conversion including: axles, springs, brake line kits, wheel spacers, steering kits, front frame supports, u bolt kits, spring perches & shock mounts, front shock mounts, sway bar mounts, fuel tank shortening kits, fender flares and more. I’d be surprised if you have a 4×4 van conversion question that Chris from Ujoint Offroad cannot answer.
You can reach Chris at 818.606.5206 or chris@ujointoffroad.com
I’ll be wrapping the bumper around the rear of the van all the way to the end of the rear fender. On the right side I’ll probably drill a 3″ hole for the exhaust to exit and mount the bottom of a heavy duty ladder. On the left I’ll add a swinging arm to hold a spare tire and a drink holder
In the middle I’ll add a mount for a Hi-Lift Jack.
I used POR15 rust preventative paint on my front Diff and liked it so much that I will be using it to coat the entire frame and bumpers. I’ve been chatting them up so much maybe they will offer me a discount on my next order because this stuff is not cheap. You are looking at a $100 of product.
Here is my daughter Morgan modeling our most recent find. They are rated for 4 3/4 tons each and I picked up 4 of them for my custom bumpers from the local metal supply yard for $32.00 ($8.oo each). Let me know if you are in need of some of these. They have tons of them at this price and I’m always looking for an excuse to visit the metal shop.
Building my own hitch mount to stick in the custom bumper I’m building. 2 1/2 ” square tube fits a 2″ hitch. (Some internal grinding required). This will never be used to carry anything heavier than a motorcycle or a cooler full of beer behind the van. I’m not sure if factory made hitches are made out of a special type of steel but this will certainly work for what I am going to throw at it.
My cargo van was great for hauling material but not originally set up for camping. These opening side windows that I found at the salvage yard should help with ventilation. I also found the large plastic footwell and rear door plastic trim that you see above it. My originals were pretty beat up from 10 years of construction work. Total price $50.00
High Top Van Installation.
This post is more of a “Post-It Note” for myself than an article.
Next week I may tackle pulling a high top from a doner vehicle to install on my own E250 Ford Van.
Here’s what I will be getting myself into if I decide to take on this project: